Things to do
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Alameda Park
Walk the Paseo da Ferradura, the horseshoe path along the park's edge, for the classic side view of the cathedral towers across the rooftops. Painted statues of two sisters, the Dúas Marías, stand at the park's lower entrance and are a well known local landmark. Late afternoon light falls on the cathedral from this side. The park sits just outside the old town, a short walk from the market.
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City of Culture of Galicia
Curved stone buildings ripple across Monte Gaiás on the edge of the city, a cultural complex of library, archive and exhibition halls designed to read like part of the hillside. The grounds and the woodland paths around them are open to walk, with long views back to the old town. Go by bus or taxi rather than on foot, and check which halls have exhibitions on before going.
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Galician Centre of Contemporary Art
Pale granite walls and sharp angles define this gallery by the architect Álvaro Siza, built beside the Bonaval park and the Museo do Pobo Galego. Exhibitions change through the year and lean towards Galician and international contemporary work. The rooftop terrace, when open, looks across the old town. Pair it with the folk museum next door for a half day out of the rain.
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Hostal dos Reis Católicos
Guests sleep in a former royal pilgrims' hospital on Praza do Obradoiro, built around four cloisters beside the cathedral. Rooms open onto stone corridors and courtyards, and the location puts the cathedral and the old town a few steps from the door. Book well ahead for July and for the Saint James feast week. Non guests can usually visit the cloisters during the day.
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Mercado de Abastos
Fishmongers and farmers sell Galician shellfish, cheeses and garden produce from stone halls a few minutes from the cathedral. Mornings are the time to come, when the stalls are full and the trade is local. A few counters inside will cook seafood bought at the stalls. The market is closed on Sundays, and by early afternoon much of it has packed away.
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Monte do Gozo
From this hill about five kilometres east of the old town, walkers on the Camino Francés catch their first sight of the cathedral spires. A large monument marks the summit, and the path down into the city follows the final stretch of the route. Walk in from here for a taste of the pilgrims' arrival. Morning is clearest; on hazy days the towers are hard to pick out.
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Museo do Pobo Galego
Inside the former convent of San Domingos de Bonaval, this museum of Galician life covers fishing, farming, crafts and costume. The highlight is the triple spiral staircase, three intertwined granite flights that lead to separate floors. The old convent church next door and the Bonaval park behind make a quiet hour after the museum. It sits a short walk north east of the old town.
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Pazo de Raxoi
Facing the cathedral across Praza do Obradoiro, this long neoclassical palace with its arcaded ground floor houses the city council and the offices of the Galician regional president. It is mostly seen from the square, where its colonnade gives shelter from the rain. Stand under the arches for a framed view of the cathedral's west front. A statue of Saint James on horseback crowns the pediment.
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Praza do Obradoiro
Granite on four sides frames this square below the cathedral's baroque west front, and it is where walkers drop their packs and sit down at the end of the Camino. The town hall closes the opposite side. Come around midday to watch arrivals, or after dark when the façades are floodlit and the square empties. Stand near the centre for the full view of the towers.
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San Martiño Pinario
Behind the cathedral's north side stands a Benedictine monastery so large it fills a whole block, now partly a seminary. The church, reached down a flight of steps, holds towering gilded baroque altarpieces and carved choir stalls, and the visit includes a museum of religious art. Allow an hour. It draws far fewer visitors than the cathedral a minute away.
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Santiago de Compostela Cathedral
Pilgrims finish their walk at this Romanesque cathedral, and the carved Pórtico da Gloria inside the west door is the detail to see first. The swinging censer, the botafumeiro, is not used at every Mass, so check the schedule before planning around it. Guided rooftop tours run over the granite roofs and sell out in summer: book ahead. Arrive early in the morning to see the nave before the tour groups.
