Things to do
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Caldera de Taburiente National Park
Walls of forested rock ring a vast erosion crater at the heart of the island, with streams and waterfalls on its floor. Book a parking space at La Cumbrecita before driving up for the rim walks, or start at the visitor centre on the LP-3 near El Paso. The long descent through the Barranco de las Angustias takes a full day and is unsafe after heavy rain.
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Charco Azul
Seawater fills a set of concrete-edged pools set into the black lava shore on the north-east coast, below San Andrés y Sauces. Swimming here suits calm days, since big Atlantic swells break over the walls and the pools close when the sea is rough. Changing rooms and a small cafe sit beside the water. Mornings are quieter than weekend afternoons, when local families arrive.
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Cumbre Vieja
Black and red cinder cones run along this volcanic ridge down the southern half of the island, crossed end to end by the Ruta de los Volcanes from the El Pilar recreation area to Fuencaliente. The full traverse is a long, exposed day with no water on the way, and it finishes far from the start, so arrange a taxi back. The 2021 eruption broke out on its western flank.
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Fuencaliente Salt Pans
Shallow pools of seawater evaporate into sea salt beside the two lighthouses at the island's southern tip, with white crusts set against black lava. A boardwalk crosses the pans, and an information panel explains how the salt is raked and harvested. The site takes about an hour. Late afternoon light suits photographs, and the wind here rarely drops.
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Los Tilos
Laurel forest fills a deep ravine above San Andrés y Sauces, a remnant of the woods that once covered much of southern Europe. A short path from the visitor centre reaches a viewpoint and a waterfall. The longer Marcos y Cordero walk passes through wet water tunnels, so carry a head torch and a waterproof layer. Mist and drizzle are normal here even when the coast is sunny.
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Puerto Naos
Dark volcanic sand and a long promenade make this west coast village the island's main beach resort, on the side that gets the most sun. Paragliders launching from the ridge above often land on the beach in the afternoon. The village was evacuated after the 2021 eruption because of volcanic gas, and reopened in stages, so check current access before booking a stay.
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Roque de los Muchachos
Telescopes of a working astrophysics observatory share the island's summit ridge with a lookout over the caldera, often above a sea of cloud. Bring warm layers even in summer, since the top sits well over two thousand metres and the wind is sharp. Sunset draws the most cars. In winter, snow or ice can close the long, winding road from either coast.
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Santa Cruz
Wooden balconies painted in bright colours line the seafront avenue of the island capital, and the pedestrian Calle Real runs behind them past Renaissance facades to the Plaza de España. A full-size replica ship near the north end of town houses a small naval museum. Shops close through the early afternoon and on Sundays, so plan a morning for the old streets.
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Tazacorte
Banana plantations climb the slopes above this west coast town, and its port below has a dark sand beach and a row of fish restaurants. Boat trips to watch dolphins and whales leave from the harbour, best booked a day ahead in calm weather. The mouth of the Barranco de las Angustias opens beside the port, where the long walk out of the caldera ends.
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Volcán de San Antonio
Above Fuencaliente, a path follows part of the rim of a near-perfect volcanic cone, with the lava fields of the Teneguía eruption spread below towards the sea. A visitor centre at the entrance explains the island's volcanoes, and entry is ticketed. Allow about an hour and a half. Wind on the rim can be strong, so hold onto hats and keep children close.
